Back in my “retro-Philly” days, I was a suburban teenager from New Jersey living with my Aunt Shirley and Uncle Dan Gayda in their welcoming household for a summer. I’d been exiled from Cherry Hill, NJ, after a family dust up to my Aunt’s home. She lived in Northeast Philadelphia on Rhawn Street, near the park. It was the location of many good times centered around the kitchen table all of my life….good food, drink, and lively family discussion. So different from the track housing and family dynamics of where I’d been raised. This was a new land for me at my father’s sister’s home. Philadelphia in the 1970s was full of neighborhoods with European ways. And cold cuts.
The Gayda refrigerator was an adventure; you’d never know what was in there from cousin Ellen’s seaweed and tofu to Freddy’s beer, Shirley’s cabbage rolls, or Uncle Dan’s headcheese and sliced tongue. The headcheese really interested me. Clearly it wasn’t cheese, it was a strange mosaic of jellied mystery meat and flecks of God knows what. I wouldn’t touch it with a ten foot pole. But my Uncle Dan loved it and now I understand why.
There is a renewed interest amongst young chefs in charcuterie and terrines, skulls, feet, cheeks and jowls, offal, and other “nasty bits” of an animal, as Tony Bourdain might say. Called by different names in different countries, Head Cheese or Souse is beloved in the world of PA Dutch cookery, throughout Europe, in Cajun country, and in the Carribbean Islands of Trinidad and Tobago, where it is usually served pickled and is ever present at social gatherings. Who knew?
If you don’t have the stomach for skull and foot boiling, this old fashioned lunch meat masterpiece can be fashioned out of high quality trimmings from pork and veal. The foot is really handy if you can get one from your butcher, since it contains more gelatin than any other body part. Sometimes additional aspic is required anyway to make the Headcheese set up properly. Here is a very simple recipe, provided that you have access to a hog’s head. Recipes differ widely, some calling for the heart and tongue as well.

image: hungrynative.com
Hog’s Head Cheese
Laura Cabot, Laura Cabot Catering, Waldoboro
1 hog’s head
1 large chopped onion
A blade of mace
3 large cloves of garlic
1 stalk sage
1 1/2 Tablespoon salt
2 bay leaves
1 large peeled carrot
1 cup cider vinegar
Dash of red pepper flakes and black pepper
Some chopped fresh parsley (optional)
Remove the brains, ears, and eyes from the hog’s head and saw into four pieces (or ask your butcher to do so).
Barely cover with cold water and bring to a boil in a large pot.
Add onion, mace, and garlic, sage, salt, and bay leaves. Continue to simmer until the meat is falling off the bones. Let it cool.
When cool enough to handle, pick the meat from the bones. Discard the bones and any skin.
Add apple cider vinegar, red pepper flakes, ground black pepper, and a bit more salt to taste to the meat and vegetables.
Run these through a processor until coarsely chopped or chop by hand for a chunkier look. I like the look of larger pieces of meat and vegetables.
Hang in cheesecloth and let the meat mixture drip for an hour, then refrigerate overnight, covered in a shallow pan. Slice and enjoy with cornishon and mustard on a cracker or piece of hearty rye.