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June 15, 2011

Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar

I am just back from Beth’s Farm Market with the first of the Maine strawberries in tow. What to do, what to do…dinner tonight is on the elaborate side, so tonight I’ll keep dessert simple. Why guild the lily when these berries are so perfectly fresh and “of the moment?”

A good balsamic vinegar will enhance the fresh flavor of many fruits but looks especially nice with strawberries. I like this combo with vanilla ice cream…and seconds!

2262_strawberries_with_balsamicimage: wholefoodsmarket.com

Strawberries with Balsamic Vinegar
Laura Cabot, Laura Cabot Catering

1 pound of fresh strawberries, cut in half if large
2 Tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
¼ cup white superfine sugar
A grating of fresh black pepper

Place berries in a bowl. Drizzle with vinegar, then the sugar. Stir gently to combine.

Cover and let sit for one hour.

Just before serving, grate on the black pepper, toss gently, and serve at once with the ice cream. Might be nice with a piece of toasted pound cake!

June 10, 2011

Grilled Duck Breasts with Savory Rhubarb Sauce

One of my favorite company “go to” meals in the summer is duck breasts on the grill. I purchase the frozen (fat on) breasts of duck at Curtis Meats or other quality purveyor and simply defrost them overnight in the fridge. I trim the fat but leave a generous pad in the center to protect the meat, which I score. This helps keep the meat moist. I love duck rather rare and generously salted and peppered. Otherwise, leave it alone and focus on the show stopping rhubarb sauce, flavored with lemon and star anise.

While my rhubarb is in its prime, I make plenty of this sauce, which cans nicely, so it may be enjoyed year round. I have noticed that I get better visual results if I make the pieces of rhubarb slightly larger, maybe 2 inches long rather then one.

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June 5, 2011

Using Sorrel: Soup of Mixed Spring Greens

What’s the first weed you can remember eating as a child?

For me it was sorrel or “sour grass” as we called it. I am speaking about oxalis or wood sorrel. Remember the one that looked like lime green clover with a little yellow flower that turned into something (now I know it was a seed pod) resembling a tiny green banana? It was puckery. But there is garden sorrel too, beloved by the French and originating in France’s southern highlands. It’s in the garden now and widely available year round at specialty markets.

A relative of buckwheat and with broad leaves that remind one of spinach, but more lemony, sorrel’s acidic finish is due to its high oxalic acid content, the same as rhubarb. That makes sorrel a natural pairing with rich or fatty fishes and meats as a sauce. It also makes a nice purée or soup.

In preparation, be sure to use a stainless knife or tear the leaves by hand. Sorrel will discolor a traditional French iron cooking knife as well as erode pots and pans, so use a stainless knife and enamel pot when cooking it.

I like to use an array of spring greens in my spring greens and sorrel soup. Try mixing fresh spinach, sorrel, and arugula with a handful of green garlic leaves for this energy boosting and easy soup. I am making this version a little bit leaner than a traditional French style sorrel soup. Sorrel is famous for turning an off-putting sludgy green color when cooked on its own. That’s why I like to mix in brighter greens like spinach for the soup. Much more appealing!

Herb soup garnished with fresh sorrel 2image: honeybellscookery.blogspot.com Continue reading “Using Sorrel: Soup of Mixed Spring Greens” »

May 23, 2011

Preparing Fresh Horseradish

I’ll bet you’d be surprised how many of you have it growing around your homes, especially if you live in or around an old farmstead. Why, I am talking about horseradish, or course!

horseradish-3

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May 16, 2011

Garlicky Periwinkle with Chorizo Appetizer

An underused but delicious “fruit of the sea” around here is the lowly periwinkle, sometimes called “wrinkle.” Last night a friend of a fisherman showed up at my door with a large bag of these little beauties and said, “Hey, how do you cook these?” And I can tell you it is not hard.

The most difficult piece of the project is cleaning the lil’ buggers, which requires several changes of cold bath water and one last soak in heavily salted water and a scrub. After that I rinsed them again to be rid of the salt and prepared them in much the same way as a mussel. Wine, butter, garlic and lots of it as well as native bay leaves. A large heavy pot with a close fitting cover is key, as well as a fast flame, to “get a good cook on it” as a native friend of mine used to say!

Don’t be surprised if you find a few snails making a break for it. I soaked mine in the fridge and had to clean up the strays that jumped out of the bowl. (That might take some getting used to!) I added a seasonal fillip with a quick trip to the garden to fetch some green garlic stalks and voila! Dinner of the finest kind.

Not one to be rushed, it takes some time to pick the meat out of the shells. But when they emerge succulent and garlicky on the end of your lobster pick, you’ll find yourself settling down to the task and thinking “the world can wait.”

e-Periwinklesimage:medcookingalaska.blogspot.com

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May 8, 2011

Wild Dandelion Greens: A Spring Tonic

It’s a spring tonic that I look forward to every year. There is only a short window in which to gather them, and once the plant blooms its distinctive yellow bloom, the greens become even more bitter. Bitterness is part of their magic; it’s a liver cleanse as well as a great meal.

My grandparents gathered dandelion greens. “Hunting for greens,” as Grand Dad used to say, made it seem like an exciting safari and as children we eagerly helped. Cleaning them is the most time consuming part, but once they’re cleaned and set to drain, here is how I prepare them.

Dandelion-Greens-500x375
image: cultivateyourwellness.com

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May 2, 2011

Spring Onion and Mustard Mash Up

Anything that one can go to their garden and harvest for supper this early in the season is a joy.

It pays to establish a bed of scallions that will pop up year after year offering up their juicy white bulbs and green stalks for us to bend to our culinary whims.

After an often chilly day spring gardening, I want something hearty, tasty, easy, and warming. Even better if I can start supper ahead; that’s what I call immediate gratification!

I prefer using russet potatoes in this easy baked potato “mash up” with plenty of spring onions. The russet potato lends a creamier texture.

spring_onionsimage: orkneyflowers.blogspot.com

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April 28, 2011

Rhubarb Sour Cream Pie

The presence of rhubarb in my garden this morning is merely nubs, barely breaking the ground, leaves wrinkly and tightly furled. But there promises to be a bumper crop of everyone’s favorite early spring fruit before long. Or is it a vegetable? We mainly use it as a fruit or pair it in pies with other fruits. In a pie, I prefer it with a hint of citrus and the smoothness that sour cream brings to the palate.

This is a pie that my sister Lynn, a terrific cook and pastry chef in her own right, makes for guests at her wonderful Victorian inn, The Widow McCrea House, in Frenchtown, NJ. People rave about this recipe, which also works well as a “buckle” with a biscuit top. Here it is:

Rhubarb Sour Cream Pie 500image:closetcooking.com

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April 24, 2011

Ramp Pesto

A recent article in the New York Times captured my eye about the wild leek or “ramp,” as they are called, and the unprecedented number of folks now out gathering them to near extinction. With that in mind, I wasn’t sure about posting this recipe but I hope readers understand that when harvesting wild foods you should never over harvest…always leave over half of the ‘tribe” undisturbed to assure that there will be a local treat available again next season.

It’s easy to understand why the first of the local forest foods inspires such a frenzy after such a long winter. They are beautiful to look at with their dark red stems and elegant leaves. Their delicious garlicky flavor is unique and this allium has powerful tonic properties. The wild ramp is now in big demand in upscale city restaurants.

I’ve got a simple recipe for a ramp pesto that freezes well, enabling us to enjoy that fresh spring flavor year round (and it works well with leek or scallions too). The trick is in lightly cooking the bulb, while using the tender part of the greens raw for that verdant spring green color. I enjoy this pesto made with blanched almonds, but pine nuts, lightly toasted, would be good too.

ramp2image: thekitchensinkrecipes.blogspot.com

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April 18, 2011

Maine Crabmeat Fondue

As many of us may know, the word “fondue” means “to melt” in French. This recipe is an appetizer superstar at parties where something rich, warm, and meltingly delicious made with local seafood is always a hit. I serve this dish with homemade crostini and keep it warm in a chafer. Also nice on a cracker.

Celebrate Spring with a party on your patio (first of the season!) for your friends. This warm crab “fondue” with take the chill off!
pa1a21_crab_dip_lg[1]image: themainehouse.blogspot.com

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April 12, 2011

Maine Micro Greens

Can’t wait for spring? I feel your pain. We long for something green under foot and something fresh, crisp and flavorful from the garden. But there is something anyone with a few proper seeds up their sleeve can do about it. Grow some “micro greens!”

microgreensimage: 66squarefeet.blogspot.com Continue reading “Maine Micro Greens” »

April 6, 2011

Spring Asparagus Soup

Want a recipe perfect for a Maine spring? Very nice asparagus is in the markets now, although not yet locally available. But it’s still cool enough to enjoy a steaming bowl of velvety green goodness. I’ve got a recipe that couldn’t be simpler or more tasty. Here it is, soothing and warming but tasting of Spring’s promise. We’re going to blend it smooth with an immersion blender, so all ingredients can be coarsely chopped, making this a quick fix meal with salad and a crunchy roll.

asparagus-soupimage:coconutandquinoa.wordpress.com

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March 24, 2011

Bread Pudding

Here is an innovative breakfast dish that could double as a simple supper, breakfast, or brunch dish. A recipe as forgiving as they come, the variations are endless and dictated only by your imagination. I like mine with smoked ham, artichoke hearts, and chevre. Making it vegetarian is a simple option, too.

One thing that makes this dish even easier is that it can be prepared a day in advance and popped in the oven in the morning. A great way to use left over bread crusts if you have a recipe (like crab cakes or tea sandwiches) that uses just the white part of the bread. I save those in the freezer and create this dish when I have enough.

cheese-bread-pudding-04
image: ifood.tv

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March 15, 2011

Irish Oatmeal Cake

Looking for the perfect dessert to compliment your St. Patty’s Day dinner? Irish eyes will be smiling when you bring this to the dinner table.

This is an easy one layer cake, often baked into a square shape but can be made into a two layer round cake by doubling the batter recipe. I like this cake, when presented as a two layer with an old-fashioned burnt sugar icing. There is a nice recipe for that icing at www.allrecipes.com. But the coconut and walnut broiled topping featured here really hits the spot too! Good old Irish whiskey really turbo charges the flavor.
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March 8, 2011

Salsify: An Heirloom Vegetable Gets a Make Over

If we were farmers living in the 19th century, we might be headed down to the root cellar right about this time of year to sort through our cabbages and apples to grab a few remaining salsify roots to boil with our pork belly or liven up a meat “pie.” More popular 100 years ago than now and long popular in Europe, this root has begun to make a resurgence into seasonal and heritage menus.

Also known as “Oyster Plant” or “Goat’s Beard” the Salsifies are the genus Tragopogon, flowering plants within the family Asteraceae, and usually considered weeds. The vegetable comes in two colors, the smaller white and stick-like variety and the thicker and longer black root (scorzonera), which has a bark-like brown skin, resembling a brown carrot.

A deep growing and miky tap root with a flavor resembling either artichoke hearts or oysters, this root is available in markets from fall through early spring. Select roots that are smooth and firm. I prefer the larger, darker and meatier roots, which are prepared by scrubbing, peeling, and trimming. Either slice them or leave in chunks to cook, depending on the recipe. Salsify may be steamed, mashed, baked, or roasted and pairs well with other vegetables. I like them boiled with potatoes or grated, seasoned, and made into fritters or in a cream soup. They over cook easily, becoming mushy.

Here is a recipe for pan roasting salsify that I enjoy at home. It serves four to six as a side dish. A great accompaniment to a roast beef.

salsify

image: goinglocal-info.com

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March 1, 2011

Ten Minute Dinner

Here’s good news to go with the evening news…it’s a dinner dish that takes ten minutes to prepare. This meal is almost entirely vegetarian, with the goodness of greens, a serious crunch from the panko, and a salty jolt from the anchovies. So fill your plate and digest the news in style.

orecchiette-500x332

Campanelle with Broccoli Rabe, Toasted Panko, and Anchovies
Laura Cabot, Laura Cabot Catering

1 pound campanelle (or any other corkscrew type pasta)
1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed of the coarse stems and cut into one-inch pieces
6 large garlic cloves, chopped coarsely
½ teaspoon of red pepper flakes, fresh pepper
1  2- ounce can of anchovies in olive oil
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Parmesan cheese to taste
1 cup panko bread crumbs, toasted with a touch of olive oil in a moderate oven till golden and seasoned with salt

Cook pasta in plenty of well salted water in a large pot until almost al dente. Stir in broccoil rabe and cook three minutes more until greens are bright yet tender, and pasta is perfectly done.

While the pasta/rabe is cooking, sauté the garlic, red pepper flakes, and anchovies in the olive oil in a heavy skillet, mashing up anchovies a bit.

Drain the pasta mixture well and add to skillet without rinsing.

Toss to combine. Season further to taste, add a little Parmesan if desired, and sprinkle with panko crumbs.

Serves 4-6.

February 22, 2011

Annato, Adobo, and Sofrito: A Latin Culinary Mystery Solved!

Can’t go tropical this year due to personal budget cuts? Me either. But I am revisiting one of my favorite recent vacations, Puerto Rico, from a culinary point of view. We’ll just have to imagine the sea and sand and tropical breezes….

Sofrito, Adobo and Annato were terms much bandied about in Latin cooking, but that didn’t mean that I really understood what they were. That is until I visited the magical island of Puerto Rico. I soon decided that “getting into one’s bathing suit” and Mofongo, their national dish of plantains with pork cracklings  and pork stew, didn’t really go together.

I came to love the island cooks’ delicious and deeply orange-y take on Arroz con Pollo, colored with Achiote oil or Annato seeds and Adobo, the richly flavored rub for meats or poultry and the basic seasoning behind so many traditional island foods we call Sofrito.

Here are recipes for preparing each and a recipe to practice your “Latin’ on….

ANNATO OR ACHIOTE is the seed of a tropical tree. If you can’t find them in a specialty market, I sometimes use a good paprika to achieve the rich reddish color that predominates in much Latin cooking.

sp_annatto05f
image: clovegarden.com

FOR ANNATO OIL…All you do is cook the ANNATO seeds with good paprika or saffron (if you are feeling flush and can’t find annato) until sizzling in lard or oil until you get that nice red-orange color. Do not overheat the oil or it will turn an off color. Cool a bit, then strain out the seeds. Keep this oil in the refrigerator and use by the spoonful for recipes like Chicken with Rice.

ADOBO is a blend of ingredients used to rub a unique flavor into meat or poultry. This recipe is appropriate for one pound of meat or chicken.

adobo
image: penandfork.com

1 teaspoon black peppercorns, whizzed in a coffee blender (I keep one in my kitchen for nothing but pepper)
1 clove of garlic, peeled and minced
¼ teaspoon of fresh or dried oregano, minced or crumbled
1 teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon olive oil
½ teaspoon fresh lime juice

Mix all ingredients together and rub into your meat or chicken thoroughly. Let marinate for several hours for the best taste.

SOFRITO is the seasoning behind so many native dishes.

sofrito
image: arrozyfrijoles.com

1 ounce salt pork
2 ounces lean cured ham (pork and ham optional; you can make a great vegetarian version)
½ cup vegetable oil or lard, divided use
½ pound green pepper
½ pound white onion, peeled
¼ pound sweet red peppers
1 small head of garlic, peeled
1 small bunch of cilantro
1 Tablespoon dried oregano
You may want to add some salt to this recipe if salt pork is not used.
Tabasco sauce to taste

Wash all ingredients, seed them, and cut into small pieces.

Pour the first ¼ cup of vegetable oil into a blender and gradually add all the pork, vegetables, cilantro, and oregano and grind them up.

In a heavy kettle, pour the second ¼ cup of oil into the pot. Bring to medium heat and add the ground mixture. Bring up to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer and let cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Allow to cool, season with Tabasco to taste.

A  great way to use and keep Sofrito is to make ice cubes with it and keep them handy in the freezer, pulling out a few at a time to make a dish. They don’t stick together. Two to three cubes will suffice for a dish that feeds 6-8 people.

ARROZ CON POLLO

arrozconpollo
image: flickr.com

¼ cup of annato oil
1- 4 pound chicken, cut into ten pieces
Kosher salt and ground pepper
½ cup sofrito
¼ cup coarsely chopped green pimento stuffed olives (alcaparrado)
1 teaspoon cumin
Pinch of ground cloves
4 cups of long grain brown rice
5 cups of homemade chicken stock
1½ cups of roasted red peppers, cut into strips

Choose an attractive Paella pan or something that you can bring to the table for serving. It must have a tight fitting lid. In this large shallow pan, heat the Annato oil until it ripples. Add the salt and pepper seasoned chicken to the pan, only as many pieces as you can without crowding them, so you’ll be working in batches browning the chicken and cooking it almost through. Set it aside.

When the chicken has been cooked, add the sofrito and alcaparrado. Season to taste with more salt and pepper, adding the cumin and clove. Raise the heat and simmer off some of the water from the sofrito.

Stir in the rice and coat with the seasonings. Return the chicken to the pan and add enough broth to cover the rice by a width of two fingers (an inch, basically). Bring the rice to a boil and cook until the broth reaches the level of the rice. Stir and cover the pot tightly, reducing the heat to low. Let it cook until the rice is tender but firm, about 20 more minutes.

Fluff the rice with a fork, garnish with the red pepper strips, and bring the whole pot of chicken and rice to the table. If you don’t have a great looking pan, you may arrange the contents attractively on a large platter and dig in while hot.

Absolutely delicious, and cheaper than air fare!

Serves 6.

February 8, 2011

Simplest Maine Shrimp Sauté

What to do with those beautiful Maine shrimp we’re seeing on roadside trucks everywhere? Sometimes, simple is best. Once you’ve had enough Maine shrimp cocktail, try this simple sauté that takes under five minutes to prepare. This recipe serves four.

MaineShrimp-2138-333x500

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February 1, 2011

Meyer Lemon Martini

Here we are in Maine. It’s mid-winter and we’ve got some time on our hands until spring. With another foot or two of snow expected this week and, in fact, most of the country hunkered down for another huge storm, I know what my plans entail tonight.

I’ll be in my favorite chair, the one I have to fight the dog for, reading my FEDCO seed catalog, lemon drop martini in one hand and a marking pen in the other.

I suppose if I didn’t love winter I wouldn’t be in Maine. One thing that makes winter more bearable is the fact that Meyer lemons abound. I always keep a simple syrup around for drinks and never tire of Meyer lemon in recipes like risotto, under the skin of a roasted chicken, in a vinaigrette for bitter winter greens, added to a black bean soup, etc. In other words, I eat them all winter long.

Not exactly a true lemon, the Meyer lemon is thought to be a cross between a Mandarin orange and a lemon tree and is far less acidic than a normal lemon. Common to California backyards and now grown commercially, the fruit is rounder and colored the shade of a free range egg yolk, a beautiful orange-y yellow hue. Alice Waters brought the use of the fruit forward during the California Cuisine Revolution. It was (naturally) named for the man who “discovered” it, Frank Nicholas Meyer in 1908, though I suspect many clever housewives were onto it long before.

Meyer-Lemon-Martinis-with-lemonsimage:bunkycooks.com

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January 27, 2011

Japanese Vegetable Pancakes (Okonomi-yaki)

Feel like changing up dinner tonight? Try Okonomi-yaki, or Japanese Vegetable Pancake. Perfect for brunch or a light supper, it is even appropriate for breakfast for those who prefer a savory start to the day over a sweet one, as the Japanese do.

There are many variations on this recipe and substitutions are just fine, so if you don’t like sweet potato, substitute carrot, for instance. It’s a very forgiving recipe. And a great low fat way to begin or end your day.

Japanese veg pan

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