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January 7, 2010

Kale, Swiss Cheese, and Bacon Casserole

In early winter, one of the last garden survivors is hardy kale, which seems to enjoy the first snowfall as much as children do. Like parsnips, kale gets sweeter after a frost. Combined with cheese and bacon, it makes a filling, custardlike casserole that can be served as a side dish or even as a main course.fal2007_snow-blanketed_kale(Kale Under Snow courtesy of tinyfarmblog.com)

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December 3, 2009

Cranberry-Pear Crisp with Almond Topping

If you’ve never thought of putting cranberries and pears in the same dish, you’ll be especially pleased with this dessert. This crisp is particularly good served for dessert following a winter dinner. Continue reading “Cranberry-Pear Crisp with Almond Topping” »

October 28, 2009

Napa Cabbage and Apple Cole Slaw

The Maine woods are dotted with ancient apple trees, a reminder that much of today’s forest was once cultivated land. Pastures, hay fields, and orchards reverted to woods when farming waned. Using our own apples in new and different ways is always a challenge. For this recipe, the tart, crunchy Granny Smith apple works well. Serve this slaw with Roast Pork Loin with Rosemary and Garlic or Bourbon and Brown Sugar Gravlax. Continue reading “Napa Cabbage and Apple Cole Slaw” »

October 11, 2009

Orchard Apple Crisp

Apple picking is a fall ritual in New England, where many growers train their trees to allow ground-level picking by letting the lower branches grow out so you don’t need a ladder to reach the apples. (Doing so exposes more of the apples to powdery mildew and other soil-borne ailments, however, so most growers keep at least some of their trees pruned high off the ground.) When the fruit ripens, the growers set up a stand in the field, and families come and pick whole bushels of apples to make pies and cider. Many of the varieties are obscure heirlooms that you never see in supermarkets, like Canadian Strawberry, which is a very juicy apple best eaten raw, or Black Oxford, a dark purple baking variety that ripens in late fall and keeps well in the refrigerator (or the root cellar) until spring. this dish is also delicious with Blueberry Ice Cream (page 198), which we make in the fall with blueberries we have frozen. Continue reading “Orchard Apple Crisp” »

October 9, 2009

Butternut Squash and Potato Gratin

Here is a traditional fall dish from Arrows restaurant. With the exception of their turkey, nothing gets more rave reviews than their gratin. Continue reading “Butternut Squash and Potato Gratin” »

September 29, 2009

Nuclear Pickled Serranos

Serranos are just about the hottest peppers you’d ever want to eat whole. (Other peppers are hotter but tend to be used sparingly in sauces.) Pickled serranos (or slightly milder jalapeños) are great to pass at the table with grilled meat and seafood dishes. We eat them–but not too many–at our staff lunches. Continue reading “Nuclear Pickled Serranos” »

September 22, 2009

Bourbon and Brown Sugar Gravlax

After making gravlax, the Scandinavian salt-cured salmon, the traditional way for years, we decided to experiment. This became our favorite flavor combination. The brown sugar and bourbon complement the salmon, which has a natural sweetness as well. Great served with horseradish crème fraîche and thin slices of red onion and Granny Smith or other crisp apple. Continue reading “Bourbon and Brown Sugar Gravlax” »

September 4, 2009

Fast Tomato Sauce

The faster you cook tomatoes, the fresher the sauce tastes. So fast cooking is what you want in August and early September, when the tomatoes are at their natural ripest and are flying out of the garden. This sauce is made in about 20 minutes–the time it takes water to boil for pasta. It’s not necessary to peel the tomatoes; as generations of Italian grandmothers have known, the skin adds a rustic bite to the sauce. Continue reading “Fast Tomato Sauce” »

August 25, 2009

Mom’s Market-Basket Ratatouille

summersquash-320piClark’s mother often made this perfect summer vegetable dish after a morning spent at the farmers’ market. There, as in our own garden, peppers, eggplants, and squash are on brilliant display during late summer. Perhaps no dish better exemplifies the principal of cooking with the season than ratatouille. We serve ours with roasted or grilled lamb and with “big” fish such as tuna or salmon.

Mom’s Market-Basket Ratatouille
Arrows Restaurant, Ogunquit

1 medium zucchini
1 medium yellow summer squash
½ cup olive oil
6 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 large red onion, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 small Italian eggplant, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
1 medium yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
¼ cup red wine vinegar

Cut the skins with about ? inch of the flesh from the zucchini and the summer squash. Discard the cores. Slice the squash skins crosswise ½ inch thick.

Warm the olive oil in a large stainless-steel sauté over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion, and salt and pepper to taste. Sauté for 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

Add the eggplant, red and yellow peppers, and sliced zucchini and yellow squash. Sauté, stirring frequently, over medium-low heat until the vegetables are just tender, about 10 minutes.

Stir in the vinegar, add more salt and pepper if needed, and remove form the heat. Serve warm, at room temperature, or slightly chilled. Once cooled, the ratatouille can be covered and refrigerated for up to a day.

Serves 6.

August 17, 2009

Blackberry Compote

At Arrows, we grow our own blueberries, strawberries, and raspberries. We also buy wild Maine blueberries as well as blackberries for this compote. Serve it chilled with vanilla or a berry ice cream and garnish with edible orange or yellow flowers like calendula, nasturtium, or citrus marigold. The dark color of the berries contrasts boldly with the flower petals.

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August 10, 2009

5 Ways to Stretch Your Garden

Until they start giving away land, most gardeners will have to make do with less space than they’d like. At Arrows we’re experts on maximizing garden space. With three gardeners working less than an acre of land, we keep our beds busy. Some plots get rotated several times during the same season, lying “fallow” for all of 24 hours. You probably don’t need to garden as intensively as we do, but here are some ways to make sure something is always coming up.

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July 29, 2009

Chilled Gazpacho with Lobster and Lime Crème Fraîche

Few dishes are as refreshing on a hot summer day as gazpacho. In Maine we embellish this classic Spanish “liquid salad” with lobster.

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July 14, 2009

Steamed Raspberry Pudding

Steamed puddings are a classic Yankee dessert. They tend to be served around the holidays, when they are made with pumpkin and molasses. This version is lighter and more suitable for summer.

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July 9, 2009

Three-Cherry Clafouti with MInt

Clafouti is a cake and custard all in one. It’s easy to make a delicious both warm and at room temperature, making it perfect for a picnic. We like to use a mixture of cherries and types of mint, but this is also good with just one variety of each.

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July 3, 2009

Red, White, and Blue Ice Cream for 4th of July

At Arrows, we make everything from scratch, including this rich, fruity ice cream that tastes like the essence of summer. To make raspberry or vanilla ice cream, see the note that follows this recipe.

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June 21, 2009

Grilled Rib-Eye Steak with Herbs and Caramelized Onions

Rib-eye steaks, which the French call entrecôtes, are richly marbled, which makes them quite juicy and full of flavor. Because they don't dry out over high heat, rib-eyes are our favorite cut of beef to throw on a searingly hot grill. Try to find aged rib-eye steaks, which are more tender and have a mellower flavor. Most aged beef is sold directly to restaurants, but good butchers and even some supermarkets stock aged beef, especially in the summer grilling season.

In this recipe, sweet caramelized onions stand up to the smoky flavor of the meat. Intensely aromatic herbs like tarragon (the foundation of that classic steak accompaniment, béarnaise sauce) also work well with grilled beef. Here we mix herbs into a salad that is sprinkled over the steaks.

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June 10, 2009

Arrows Restaurant’s Creamy Goat Cheese Toasts

These toasts go well with salads, as part of an antipasto platter, or just on their own as a canapé. If you like, add a Tablespoon of chopped flat-leaf parsley or a teaspoon of chopped thyme leaves.

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May 20, 2009

Arrows Restaurant Appetizer: Asparagus Soup with Lobster, Morels, and Chervil

This is the ultimate spring soup. Few dishes could make a more elegant start to a celebratory dinner. It is not hard to make, but be careful not to overcook the asparagus or it will lose its bright color and turn mushy. We enjoy the delicate look of chervil, and its aniselike flavor brightens this rich soup. Chervil takes about 6 weeks to grow from seed, but you can plant it quite early (a month before the last frost) or grow it indoors in pots on a sunny windowsill.

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May 12, 2009

Fiddlehead Ferns with Brown Butter and Bundnerfleisch

One of the special treats of a New England spring are fiddlehead ferns, which grow wild along mossy stream banks. They are simply the immature leaf fronds of ostrich fern plants that have not yet opened. Fern leaves are poisonous once they open and can only be enjoyed in this early stage, when they taste like a cross between artichokes and asparagus. Not everyone enjoys this "forest food", but we find that the sweet, nutty taste of brown butter adds smooth richness to the woodsy flavor of ferns.

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May 10, 2009

Warm Dandelion Greens with Bacon Vinaigrette

When it is a bit chilly in the New England spring, nothing tastes better than a salad of wilted dandelion greens. Besides being a warm comfort food on a cool night, the fresh greens tantalize with hints of the unfolding season. If you do not have dandelion greens, you can substitute just about any other hearty green such as Napa cabbage, Swiss chard, or spinach. This salad is great served with warm crusty sourdough bread.

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