A garden delivers so many little pleasures, and peas hidden behind the leaves is certainly one of them. Who can resist sugar snap peas right off the trellis? The challenge is to refrain from picking them too soon, before they’ve developed sweetness; when ready, the pods will be swelled with large peas. The Asian greens in this salad add a spicy note, and they’re so easy to grow.

Rock shrimp, which come from the Gulf of Mexico, are small and delicate (similar to Maine shrimp), and they stay quite firm after cooking. Any small shrimp will work in this recipe.

image of sugar snap pea courtesy of flickr.com

Sugar Snap Pea and Rock Shrimp Salad
Arrows Restaurant, Ogunquit

For the Vinaigrette
1/3 cup rice vinegar
2 Tablespoons soy sauce
2 Tablespoons finely chopped gingerroot
2 Tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon sweet chile paste (available at Asian and specialty markets)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2/3 cup vegetable oil
1 Tablespoon sesame oil

Combine the vinegar, soy sauce, ginger, sugar, chile paste, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the vegetable and sesame oils. The vinaigrette will keep covered in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

For the Shrimp and Peas
Kosher salt
8 ounces sugar snap peas (about 2 cups)
2 cups white wine
1 cup white wine vinegar
1 cup water
1 Bunch scallions, finely chopped
4 bay leaves
1 1/2 pounds rock or other small shrimp, peeled

In a large pot bring 2 quarts water and 1 Tablespoon salt to a boil. Fill a medium bowl halfway with ice water. While the water is heating, remove the fibrous strings from the peas; snap off the top of each one and the string will come with it. Plunge the peas into the boiling water for 20 seconds. Drain the peas in a sieve and submerge immediately in the ice bath. As soon as the peas are completely chilled, drain them, wrap them in a clean kitchen towel, and refrigerate.

Combine the wine, vinegar, water, scallions, bay leaves, and 2 Tablespoons salt in a large stainless-steel saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the shrimp and cook for 2 minutes; do not let the liquid boil. Drain the shrimp (discard the poaching liquid), transfer to a large plate, and refrigerate. When the shrimp are completely chilled, cover the plate with plastic wrap and return to the refrigerator until ready to serve.

To Serve
2 ounces tatsoi (about 2 handfuls), washed and dried
2 ounces mizuna (about 2 handfuls), washed and dried
4 scallions, light and dark parts, finely chopped

Toss the tatsoi and mizuna with 1/3 of the vinaigrette and divide it among 6 chilled plates. Toss the shrimp and peas with the remaining vinaigrette and arrange on top of the greens. Garnish with the scallions and serve at once.

Serves 6.

Notes: The shrimp and sugar snap peas taste best when cooked the same day you serve them.

Serve with an Asian ale or an Alsatian white wine.

Arrows Restaurant in Ogunquit is run by its two chef-owners, Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier.