During the summer, I try my best to sample as many fried clams as possible at the seasonal clam shacks up and down the New England coast. Which is better—clams coated in batter or crumbs? Depends on a lot of factors, such as the freshness of the clams, the quality of the oil, and other things, but when everything is right I tend to prefer batter. If the clams are large, I like to “squeeze the bellies,” which means pinching the belly to get the gross black goo out, but truthfully, by the time the clams are coated with batter and fried, you can’t see the goo anymore and it really doesn’t taste bad.

image: nytimes.com

Batter-Fried Clams
Linda Greenlaw, Recipes From a Very Small Island

2 pounds small soft-shell clams
1¾ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup sour milk (see note)
1 large egg
Vegetable oil for frying

Shuck the clams. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, and salt. Whisk in the milk and egg to make a batter about the consistency of heavy cream.

Heat the oil in a deep fryer or heavy deep skillet to 365°. Dip clams in the batter, letting any excess drip off, slide into the hot fat, and cook, turning once with tongs, until golden brown, 2-3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and serve hot.

Serves 4.

Note: This old-fashioned recipe calls for sour milk, which, before the days of reliable refrigeration, used to be more common in the kitchen larder. To make it, add 2 teaspoons white or cider vinegar to a cup of milk and let stand for about 10 minutes to sour.

Linda Greenlaw is a bestselling author, cookbook author, swordboat captain, and Isle au Haut resident.