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May 10, 2010

Did you say “Goat?”

“I had learned the love of cooking at this early age under the unconventional instruction of Miss Ada.” This was a line in my May 6, 2009 story on Maine Food and Lifestyle’s blog, titled “Actor Gary Merrill and Irish Lobster Pie.” Miss Ada was a proud lady from Jamaica who worked for my grandparents as a summer housekeeper when I was a child. From her I learned a great deal about the culture and the island. Jamaica and Grand Cayman have always been my favorite vacation spots. Over the years, many of my menus have had a little “Island” influence slipped in. So I guess it was inevitable in my natural progression of falling in love with a culture, a country, a cuisine, to fall in love with a man who grew up on Jamaica.

I met Everton in 2000. I was catering a wedding and needed some help. In a causal conversation at the local Irving, he told me that he was new to the area, up for 6 months on a work visa and had vast experience in hospitality and culinary. What started as a professional relationship blossomed into love, but not without its obstacles (of course)…Over the next nine years, we were on and off, however in September of 2009, he asked me to marry him and to my own surprise I said yes.

curry-goat-jamaican-5-375x500

image courtesy of ecurry.com

Despite my professional knowledge of the cuisines of the Caribbean, I discovered our personal tastes, day to day diets, and approaches to food to be very different. For me, if there is not at least a pound of butter in my fridge, I worry.  He never touches butter. For his last birthday, I made him a beautiful cake (I started my career as a pastry chef). Evva politely informed me that he has never eaten “sweets” but was willing to try it. The pain on his face was more than I could stand to look at so we gave it away to a known chocoholic.

Breakfast for me is usually a huge coffee from any drivethru I pass in the morning on the way to work, which I then gulp down while doing 70mph and texting (yes I admit it!). My husband has his morning ritual of fresh fruits, English tea, and porridge (Irish oatmeal). I might add, enjoyed while sitting at the dining room table with a cloth napkin in his lap. One dish we do agree on is curried goat.

Goat??? You ask. I know! Get ready to be surprised. My first bite was on Jamaica in 1976 at this funky little beach front eatery. It was delicious, tender, mild, not too much heat, served with rice, beans, and fried plantains. I loved it. To fully appreciate this or any goat dish, choice meat must be purchased intelligently and from a reputable source.

There are a few markets in Portland that sell fresh and frozen goat. I recommend the ethnic markets on Washington Avenue. They sell products which fall under Islamic dietary laws (known as Halal) which provides a set of rules as to what Muslims eat in their diet and other areas. Meat purchased at these markets is of the very highest quality and of the best cuts. So without further chatter, I offer an outstanding…

Jamaican Curried Goat Recipe

1 cup white vinegar
1 cup of curry powder (I recommend the Jamaican Curry Powder sold at these stores unless you make your own)
3 large sprigs fresh thyme
3 Scotch Bonnet peppers (finely chopped) Be sure to removes seeds and wear gloves while handling.
2 yellow onions (diced)
1 bunch scallions (greens only-diced)
4 pounds of goat meat (bone in or out) This will come cut in approximately 3 inch pieces and cost is under $3.00 a pound
4 ounces fresh  garlic (diced)
1 ounce fresh shallot (diced)
4 ounces fresh  ginger (diced)
4 ounces chopped carrot
4 ounces  tomato (canned-diced is fine)
8 ounces  potato (diced)
3 quarts of stock (chicken or vegetable)
Salt and pepper to taste
½ teaspoon of allspice

Step 1

Soak the meat in vinegar for 30 minutes. Wash with water and rub with combination of curry powder, salt, pepper, and allspice. Cover with thyme, garlic, onion, scotch bonnets, and scallions. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit in refrigerator  overnight.

Step 2

Remove the meat. Save the marinade.  Heat ¼ cup of cooking oil in a braising pan. Brown the meat. Reduce the heat to low. Add the other ingredients including the marinade as well as the stock. Let simmer two or so hours till meat is tender and falls apart or off the bone. The liquid will reduce and make a thin gravy. To thicken further, make a slurry of cornstarch and cold water. Add till it reaches a gravy consistency you like.

Serve with rice, beans, and coconut milk. Make your favorite (2 cup) rice recipe but substitute 1 cup of unsweetened coconut milk for water. Add 1 cup of red beans (pintos or kidneys work well).

Jamaicans are not big on desserts (as I mentioned earlier) however a favorite treat is Carrot Milk. Here is my simple version of it.

Carrot Milk

1 quart of good quality pure carrot juice
1 can of sweetened condensed milk
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 bottle of Guinness Stout (optional)
Blend, chill, and enjoy over ice.

Margaret Salt McLellan is the 2008 Maine Lobster Chef of the Year.

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