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July 15, 2009

The Humble Taco: Perfectly Done in Maine, of All Places

This is hard for me to admit.

As an ex-Californian who lived for many years where there is a taqueria on practically every corner, I got very used to eating some really good, authentic Mexican food. The real deal. My expectations for good comida mexicana were, admittedly, pretty low when I moved to Maine a few years ago, although every now and then there have been surprises. Shell’s Southwest Grill in Rockland is one such discovery because she uses lots of fresh cilantro in everything, and her fish tacos can transport me back to a certain taco stand in Malibu.

And I was totally blown away this weekend by Home Kitchen Cafe in Rockland. I ordered their Lobster Taco special and couldn’t believe my eyes when it Lobster-tacowas put down in front of me. Succulent claw meat was mixed with thinly sliced purple cabbage (very authentic), chopped onions, tomatoes and cilantro, slices of perfectly ripe avocado, and a splash of crema fresca –  all bundled in a homemade tortilla! No tasteless, over-cooked, wafer-thin, brittle taco shell out of the box here. No sir, what I had in front of me was a soft corn tortilla, about 1/8-inch thick that had been made out of masa harina. Chef James Hatch found the fine, Mexican corn meal at Good Tern Co-op, mixed it with just the right amount of water, and flattened the ball of masa with a tortilla press to the right thickness. Soft, flexible, and with flavor I could actually taste, this was heaven.

Neither the Southwest Grill nor the Home Kitchen Cafe has a website yet, so you’ll just have to head to the Rockland Harbor for one, and find the corner of Main Street and Cottage Street for the other. You won’t be disappointed, And if you are a displaced resident of a border state, you’ll probably cry out of sheer joy.

Merrill Williams is the publisher of Maine Food & Lifestyle magazine.

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