I had to go to Portland when I heard about the Belgian style fries done in duck fat! Plus I needed to see what James Beard Award Winner Rob Evans of Hugo's was doing for FUN! Well, he's doing Duck Fat! "And why?" reads the menu. "Because it makes the fries taste good" is the response.

My friends admire the lengths I'll go to for a good meal. But heading to Portland for French fries? Oh yes! No regrets. Truffled ketchup too, or a variety of interesting home made mayos, if that's your pleasure.

As we approached the attractive storefront at 43 Middle Street, we could see that the place was packed well after lunch hour. Once we got in the door, there was a wait at the bar, with the young and very informed staff doing their best to keep order. The feel was definitely bistro and very happening. There were several tables for two, all full… and a few larger tables that turned into communal situations, strangers sitting together and giggling about the saturated fat that we were all about to ingest. This is where we settled.

It should be mentioned that the dairy used here is Smiling Hill Farms and the organic potatoes come from Crown of Maine in Madawaska, ME.

The show stopper (heart stopper?) on the menu, and not for the faint of heart or those with high cholesterol, was the Duckfat Poutine…layers of duck fat fries, Maine cheese curds, and homemade duck gravy. I chose a large fry, sans cheese or gravy, with the ketchup (white truffle oil added) and the curry mayo, very reminiscent of street treats in Amsterdam. They're served in a big paper cone and came  perfectly salted, offered with a variety of dippers.

But wait, there's more! You can choose from a variety of wine and beer, waters, Italian sodas or herbal iced tea. Or try the killer $5 milkshake with organic and local ice cream, malted for an extra 50 cents. My friend picked out a great pannini sandwich from an all star line up. Grilled eggplant and bright green pesto…all was so fresh, and very crispy bread makes the sandwich! Other offerings included a turkey BLT, grilled ham and cheese, a tuna melt, meatloaf, duck confit, or a corned tongue reuben. Toast and jam on brioche is another option. I went with the duck confit salad with a poached egg and mixed greens, one of three nice salads available. Others included roasted beets and orange or simple mixed greens. My choice, the duck confit salad, was sort of a farmer's salad and just right with the fries. We chose to share all and it was plenty for two. Three soups are offered daily. A simple menu, yet oddly luxurious.

Dessert offerings ran to Beignets, period. These are the donut holes or fried dough that are so popular in New Orleans. They came in four flavors and looked great. We, in good faith, could eat no more fat, so we called it good, and it was… great, in fact. Simple and great in the way that less sometimes becomes more.

Laura Cabot is a French trained chef with a long career as a chef/restaurant owner and is currently president of Laura Cabot Catering in Waldoboro.